One mother mold is a special casing that supports a latex, silicone or polyurethane flexible rubber mold. It helps to keep them distortion or collapsing when the casting material is poured into. These rigid supports can be made of any rigid material such as plaster, glass fiber or polyurethane plastics.
The current material of choice for the realization of mother molds for larger subjects is glass fiber. The low cost and light weight of this material makes it ideal. mother molds for smaller objects tend to be made of chalk. If one latex mold is less than 0 mm in height, then you probably would not need one at all. Molds of this size can successfully be paid by suspending in a cardboard hole. On the other hand some molds of tiles in 3D of about 100 mm in size, with a large flat horizontal surface can distort and would definitely need a mother mold to support it.
The rigidity of the mother mold is important so that it offers sufficient support to the flexible rubber mold. It is therefore important that the rubber mold has undercuts as it can be difficult to remove from the rigid support when cast with material. The rubber mold may still have undercuts inside. The undercut on the outer part of the mold can be filled with a flexible sponge dipped in latex. Additional coats can be added to make the exterior of the smooth mold.
is also important to do the mother mold immediately after the rubber mold is made. The original object within the rubber mold will hold the rubber mold to its true form and the mother mold will support the mold in an accurate manner.
Make a plaster mother mold a latex mold.
Just like the latex mold is complete and dry apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly on all external surfaces of the mold. This will help in removing the mother mold when full.
Most of the mother mold must be a casing in two pieces to be fastened together around the latex mold. It will be necessary to find the most simple dividing line for the two pieces to separate from the mold. This is usually the less detailed areas of the mold. Once you have decided where the dividing line should be to mark it out with a pen on the mold latex.
Now you can make the first half of the mother mold. Using clay oil-based hardener not build a wall for the seam. Making this wall about 50mm thick and add some grooves in the wall to act as a registration point so that the two mold parts together will introduce in the right place.
plaster can now be applied for the first half of the right to latex mold until the clay walls. Make sure that the clay walls with the recording grooves are covered with plaster. Squares of jute can be dipped in plaster and plaster already added to the mold to add strength to the mother mold. Be sure to overlap these jute squares. Building the plaster mold mother up to about 15 to 30 mm thick and leave to dry.
Once the plaster has set, you can remove the non-hardening clay. It will now be necessary to apply a release agent for the plaster which is left with the recording grooves when the clay has been removed as we now add the second half of the mold. If no release agent is applied to this part of the first piece of the mother mold the plaster from sticking to the second half. We can use petroleum jelly for this.
Now apply plaster to the second half of the mold by the same method as the first piece with hessian by force. Once this second piece has set both halves of the mother mold can be removed. These pieces should come away easily. The mold support is now complete. The original model can be removed from the latex mold and the casting material can be poured into thick rubber bands can be used to hold the pieces of mother plaster mold together during the launch
Note: When you make it .. mother plaster mold it might be a good idea to ensure the top is level, such as when you turn it upside down to launch will need to be independent unless you are not going to support it with braces.
Making a glass fiber Mother Mould
The method of creating a backup fiberglass is basically the same as that described above.
apply the non-hardening clay in the same way to the line side and apply Vaseline or wax as a release agent to the latex mold. Coat the mold in the latex with the polyester resin before applying any mat of glass fiber or filaments. This will ensure there are no air bubbles, and the resin is achieved in every shape and angle. When this first coat cures in a state of tacky apply the fiberglass mat that has been saturated in resin. Continue applying the mat to the entire surface of the mold in the latex so that overlap your mat. When completed it possible to treat and repeat with the other backup piece.
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